County Leitrim sits quietly in the north-west of Ireland, in the border region where the province of Connacht meets Ulster. It is one of the least populated and least visited counties in the country, and part of its charm lies precisely in the fact that it is a little off the beaten track. That same quality, however, means a bit of planning pays off when it comes to reaching the county and getting around once you are there. For anyone booking a bed and breakfast in Leitrim, understanding the practicalities of travel will make for a smoother and more enjoyable trip.
Where Leitrim Sits
Leitrim is a long, narrow county that stretches from a short coastline on the Atlantic in the north down to the lakelands of the midlands in the south. It borders several counties, including Sligo, Roscommon, Cavan, Donegal and, across the border, Fermanagh in Northern Ireland. This central-but-remote position means Leitrim is genuinely accessible from many directions, yet it is rarely a place people simply pass through, which helps preserve its unhurried atmosphere.
The county town, Carrick-on-Shannon, sits toward the south and functions as the main hub for services, transport and accommodation. Other towns such as Manorhamilton in the north, and Ballinamore, Mohill and Drumshanbo in the interior, act as smaller centres. Knowing roughly where your chosen bed and breakfast lies within this long county will help you judge travel times and plan day trips sensibly.
Arriving by Air and Onward Travel
Leitrim has no airport of its own, but several serve the wider region within a reasonable drive. Ireland West Airport at Knock, in County Mayo, is one of the closest and offers connections to a range of British and European destinations. Dublin Airport, while further away on the opposite side of the country, has by far the widest choice of flights and is a common arrival point for international visitors, who then drive across to the north-west in roughly two and a half to three hours. Belfast’s airports are another option for those approaching from Northern Ireland.
From any of these airports, the most straightforward way to reach Leitrim is by hire car. Public transport connections exist but can be indirect, so most visitors who value flexibility pick up a rental at the airport and drive. If you do intend to rely on buses and trains, it is worth mapping your route carefully in advance and confirming timetables, as services to and within rural areas can be limited.
Trains and Buses
Leitrim is served by the rail network at Carrick-on-Shannon, which sits on the line between Dublin and Sligo. This makes the county town one of the easier rural destinations in the west to reach without a car, with several trains a day connecting to the capital. If your bed and breakfast is in or near Carrick-on-Shannon, arriving by train is a genuinely practical and relaxing option.
Bus services link the main towns of the county and connect Leitrim to the wider national network, but frequencies outside the busier routes can be sparse, and some smaller villages may have only a handful of services a week. For travellers without a car, the sensible approach is to base yourself in a town well served by public transport and choose accommodation and activities within reach of it, rather than attempting to hop between remote rural locations by bus.
Driving and Getting Around
For the great majority of visitors, a car is the key to enjoying Leitrim fully. The county’s appeal lies in its scattered lakes, quiet lanes, waterfalls and viewpoints, many of which are simply not reachable by public transport. Driving here is generally a pleasure, with light traffic and scenery at every turn, but a few local realities are worth bearing in mind.
- Many roads are narrow rural lanes with grass growing up the middle; take these at a gentle pace and be ready to reverse to a passing point when meeting oncoming traffic.
- Ireland drives on the left, which visitors from mainland Europe and North America should keep front of mind, especially at junctions and roundabouts.
- Fuel stations can be few and far between in rural stretches, so fill up in the larger towns rather than assuming you will find a pump nearby.
- Mobile coverage and satellite navigation can be patchy in the hills and along remote lakeshores, so carry a paper map or download offline directions as a backup.
- After heavy rain, some low-lying roads near lakes and rivers can flood, so heed any local warnings and be prepared to take an alternative route.
Planning Your Days from a Bed and Breakfast Base
Because Leitrim is long and its attractions are spread out, it helps to think in terms of regions rather than trying to see everything from a single base. If you are staying in the south around Carrick-on-Shannon or Drumshanbo, the Shannon waterways, southern lakes and craft food and drink scene are all close at hand. If your bed and breakfast is in the north near Manorhamilton, the dramatic glens, waterfalls and mountain scenery are on your doorstep, with the coast and neighbouring Sligo within easy reach.
A good local host is one of your best resources for practical travel advice. They can tell you realistic driving times, which lanes to avoid after rain, where to park at popular walking spots, and how to string together a day that flows well rather than doubling back on itself. Because Leitrim tourism is low-key and personal, this kind of guidance is freely given and genuinely useful. Arrive with a flexible plan, allow more time than the map suggests for the smaller roads, and you will find that getting around this quiet corner of Ireland becomes part of the pleasure rather than a chore.